Written by: Ivka Barić
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No further! That’s the first thing you think when you see the famous fashion photographer Suzana Holtgrave, who fills every room with joy through her signature — a big smile.
Often hiding under the pseudonym Suzy Love, which sounds like the title of a timeless hit by one of her greatest inspirations, David Bowie, this creative diva sang along with him at a Berlin concert in 2002.
Born under the hot Istrian sun, but with a soul rooted in the energetic streets of Berlin, where she found her home away from home, Suzana Holtgrave is not just a globally successful fashion photographer, but also a style and art icon. Combining Mediterranean ease and the dolce vita lifestyle, with a touch of German precision and an eye for detail, she transforms everything she captures with her camera into a masterpiece.
Her photographs, in which she explores beauty while uncovering the depths of character, grace the pages of all the major fashion magazines such as Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Schön! Magazine, Material Girl, J’N’C, L’Officiel, and even the prestigious Vogue. Suzana Holtgrave’s artistic style is not just an aesthetic expression but a manifestation of her inner strength and authenticity. She is a modern-day hippy, bringing freshness and a new perspective to the fashion world without any nostalgia.
A true global citizen, hippy at heart, and artist in expression, Suzy is a fashion genius and a singer of the soul, caught in a time loop between the past and the future.
One of her distinctive series, „Girls on the Balcony,” reveals the spontaneity and liveliness of moments, where, without stylists and makeup artists, she portrays the natural beauty and personality of each girl with an incredible ability to capture the authenticity of the moment. Through her lens, moments become stories that come alive — every girl becomes a heroine, every fashion combination becomes a tale.
She started her career as a model but quickly recognized her passion for photography and moved to the other side of the camera. Her portfolio is filled with incredible visuals that explore the boundaries of fashion, beauty, and art. From subtle elegance to bold experiments, Holtgrave fearlessly explores every aspect of the fashion world.
Her art knows no bounds. She also successfully presented herself with the serious series „Camp,” which earned her an award at the Rovinj Photodays festival, where she was one of four Croatian photographers honoured among seven hundred applicants from all over the world. Her success was even greater as her portraits were compared by the famous American photographer Tod Papageorge to those of one of the most prominent photographers of the 20th century, Diane Arbus.
From shooting for renowned fashion magazines to exhibiting in prestigious galleries worldwide, Suzana Holtgrave is always seeking new ways to express herself. Driven by an innate curiosity to find a deeper message, she subtly invites viewers to explore and reflect through the moments she captures, where every detail is carefully planned, yet every expression leaves room for spontaneity and liveliness.
Even a brief encounter, where you’ll feel her energy and charm without even speaking, will prove how sincere Suzana Holtgrave is in her expression.
She describes herself as a „cool, creative, and likable person.” Her gestures, infectious smile, and, above all, eclectic style reflect a personality that is both fresh and timeless, just like her photographs. It’s no wonder that, with her unmistakable taste, she often finds herself in the role of a stylist on set, blending seemingly incompatible patterns, colours, and textures.
Every one of her fashion combinations, just like her photographs, bears the stamp of personality. Combining talent, style, and soul, Suzana Holtgrave brings love for life into her work, reminding us that art is most beautiful when it comes from the heart.
You have worked for some of the leading fashion magazines and brands. What does the collaboration process with such names in the fashion industry look like, and how does it differ from the work you do in Croatia?
Collaboration with top fashion magazines and brands is indeed an exciting experience. The process usually begins with thorough research of the brand or magazine’s vision and aesthetics. Afterward, we work together to develop the best concept. Naturally, there are high standards and demands, but at the same time, it offers me, as a photographer, an opportunity for creative expression at the highest level.
As for the differences compared to the work I do in Croatia, I would say that these differences are mainly in the scope of the projects. However, the essence remains the same – the focus is on quality, innovation, and what I consider particularly important: the expression of artistic identity.
When working for world-renowned fashion magazines, do they respect your artistic vision, or do they expect you to realize theirs? How much creative freedom do you have?
Of course, magazines have specific standards and aesthetic guidelines. They know what to expect from me and appreciate my artistic vision, which they understand from my portfolio. From the initial phase of collaboration, there’s an understanding that my personal style and creative approach will match their requirements perfectly. It’s a combination of my artistic vision and their demands, but creativity is always encouraged, often resulting in outstanding visual stories that satisfy both us and the readers.
For me, it’s essential to maintain my authenticity and exploratory spirit. I continuously educate myself, research new techniques and concepts. I’m fortunate to collaborate with incredibly creative people regularly, which gives me the chance to learn and develop my ideas further. Authenticity is key to long-term success and recognition.
You’ve gone through different aspects of the fashion industry throughout your career. What lessons did you learn as a model that helped you as a photographer later?
As a model, I learned how to act in front of the camera and collaborate with the team. This made it easier for me to communicate my visions and ideas as a photographer. My modelling career began almost like a movie, thanks to a chance encounter in Berlin. A photographer noticed me on the street and asked if I would like to work as a model. I modelled for fifteen years before deciding to switch sides and take a position behind the camera.
One of the most significant experiences during my modelling career that shaped me as an artist was working with the legendary Helmut Newton. I had the privilege of being in front of his lens, but I also got to know him personally and was involved in the making of a film about his life, where I portrayed one of the characters from his childhood.
I was fascinated by how he conveyed sensuality and power through his photographs while challenging conventional beauty and fashion norms. That experience enriched me professionally forever.
Your portraits often capture authentic and intimate moments. How do you build trust with your models?
I’m glad you asked. I always strive to establish open and honest communication to build trust and create a comfortable atmosphere. It’s important for the models to feel relaxed. I always listen to their ideas, and together, we work on creating a space where they can be themselves and freely express their emotions.
I believe that’s crucial for capturing genuine and particularly emotional moments.
You’ve received numerous awards and accolades, including being compared to Diane Arbus. How do you handle the pressures and expectations that come with such comparisons?
Honestly, such comparisons are encouraging and flattering, but I always try to focus on my work and continue to grow as an artist, regardless of external comments or comparisons. It’s important for me to maintain my own identity in my creative work, which is why I don’t let others’ opinions weigh on me too much.
Your photography series *Kamp* won an award at the Rovinj Photodays festival. Can you tell us more about that project, and can we expect more ‘forays’ outside of fashion?
That series of photographs was an attempt to capture the spirit of freedom and simplicity. I was inspired by various aspects of camping, from nature to human interactions. Stepping outside the framework of fashion allowed me to explore new themes and expressions of my art. Winning the award was an incredible encouragement for future work.
Although I’m known for fashion photography, I’m always open to exploring new areas. In the future, you’ll see more such ‘forays’ because I believe in continuously expanding my horizons.
Are there certain themes or trends you’d like to explore further?
I’ve always been intrigued by themes like identity, belonging, and the beauty of diversity on a deeper level. I’m also drawn to topics of sustainability, nature, and coexisting with our environment. I hope that my work will continue to inspire thought and dialogue, whether it’s through fashion photography or my ‘forays’ into new areas.
How do you see your role as a woman in the world of fashion photography? What are the advantages of the female perspective?
As a woman, I believe I have a unique opportunity to contribute to the diversity and depth of the stories told through photography. The advantage of the female perspective is our ability to bring empathy and compassion to the creative process. This allows us to build close relationships with models and capture their true essence and emotions. Additionally, a woman’s sensitivity can add depth and complexity to the stories being told, opening up space for new interpretations and perspectives.
Our understanding of the nuances of human experience often results in photographs that are not only visually appealing but also deeply emotional. That’s why I believe our role is crucial in shaping the fashion world as a space where diversity stands out, and stories are told in a subtle yet powerful way.
How do you handle moments of creative block or lack of inspiration?
There isn’t an artist who hasn’t faced that challenge. I think it’s important to accept that it’s a normal part of the creative process and not to feel frustrated by it. Instead, those moments should be used as an opportunity for reflection, contemplation, and exploration of new areas.
One of the strategies I use is going out into nature or changing my environment to refresh my mind and gain a new perspective. Sometimes I simply allow myself some free time and rest, giving my creativity a chance to return spontaneously.
It’s important to be patient and not force the process. Creativity comes and goes in waves, so it’s essential to accept and appreciate each part of that cycle.
How do you come up with ideas for new projects? Are there any artists or fashion icons that particularly inspire you?
Ufff….It’s a dynamic and diverse process. My *ménage à trois* is fashion, music, and photography. Sometimes I’m inspired by everyday experiences and observing the world around me, while other times, conversations with people or artistic works spark my creativity. Films also play a significant role, especially those by Italian directors like Pasolini or Fellini.
In fact, I’m more inspired by the spirit of the ‘60s and ‘70s than today’s fashion trends. To me, that period represents the pinnacle of creativity, freedom of expression, and authenticity, perfectly reflected in the fashion of the time.
When I think about my fashion icons, Veruschka von Lehndorff is my absolute fashion icon. She was more than just a model; she symbolised freedom, experimentation, and modernity, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion world. I’ve always been fascinated by her look and attitude.
As for male fashion icons, it’s undoubtedly David Bowie. He was more than a musician; a true artist who used clothing as a form of creative expression and identity. Bold, eccentric… he inspired many aspects of my life, including my style. He was also my first great love, though sadly only a platonic one.
Then there’s Prince, whom I met in person. He even invited me to a party, but I turned him down. Who knows… maybe that crush would have turned into something more if I had responded differently (laughs).
What are your passions and hobbies outside the world of fashion?
I love exploring new music genres and dancing like no one is watching. Music plays a major role in my life, especially because I used to sing. It moves me, inspires me, and helps me express myself. I always regret not taking the opportunity to learn how to play the drums or piano when I was younger.
Then there’s travel. Nothing inspires or enriches me as much as discovering new places. For me, traveling is more than just a vacation; it’s a chance to discover, learn, and grow. Every new destination has its own unique charm.
I adore Morocco. It captivated me with its mix of tradition, exoticism, and diversity. I’m particularly fascinated by the incredible orange light that bathes every corner. You must try Moroccan food! Vegetarian couscous, tajine, spices like coriander, cumin, and saffron, the scents of mint and fresh fruits… are just some of the reasons I fell in love with their cuisine. The beauty, the smells, the colours, walking through the narrow streets of the medina, soaking up the atmosphere at the markets, discovering hidden oases of peace… Morocco left a deep impression on me.
You have a great sense of style. How would you describe it, and can you name a few key elements that define your personal fashion aesthetic?
I’m a hippy — and a happy one! I’ve always been, and always will be. Even when I followed fashion trends, with bleached Blondie-style hair or shaved punk haircuts… deep down, I was always a hippy! Whether I’m wearing high heels and latex or a men’s suit (I love suits!) — I’m always positive, always about love!
I love that Ibiza hippy look: kaftans, mixing patterns, textures, and colours in unexpected ways. It’s important for me to feel comfortable in what I wear, but I also like to add unexpected details that catch the eye. My trademarks are large sunglasses, big hats, and long hair (a great way to hide).
For me, fashion is an expression of freedom and individuality, so I strive for my style to reflect that philosophy.
Which fashion designers do you admire, and why are they special to you?
There are many. I’m deeply inspired by the creations of Alexander McQueen. His dark, gothic aesthetic and theatrical approach to fashion are unforgettable. Every one of his collections is a search for identity, beauty, and death in a provocative and intriguing way.
I also adore the layered silhouettes, rich textures, and dramatic details of John Galliano. Philip Treacy’s hats transform even the simplest outfit into a masterpiece.
I’m drawn to designers who challenge traditional fashion norms, like Rei Kawakubo or Iris Van Herpen. Their experimental approach to materials and garment construction makes you think, and their photogenic nature makes them perfect for editorial pieces. It’s not just clothing; it’s true art that transcends conventional design. Such creations carry a story and emotion with them.
I love layered silhouettes, rich textures, and the dramatic details of John Galliano. Philip Treacy’s hats can transform even the simplest outfit into a masterpiece. I’m also drawn to designers who challenge traditional fashion norms, like Rei Kawakubo or Iris Van Herpen. Their experimental approach to materials and garment construction makes you think, and their photogenic nature makes them perfect for editorial pieces. It’s not just clothing; it’s true art that transcends conventional design. Such creations carry a story and emotion.
Are you based in Pula or Berlin?
Both. Pula is my hometown, tied to strong emotions and the roots of my creativity. On the other hand, Berlin has become my „home away from home,” a city that inspires me with its energy, diversity, and openness. So, I can say that I’m at home both in Pula and Berlin, as both cities play an important role in my life and work.
When I was a little girl, people would ask me where I was from, and I would answer, „From this world.” I’m not a fan of borders that divide us; I believe in connection and the exchange of ideas, especially in a cultural context. I’m grateful to be part of a society where I can live in one place yet still feel like a global citizen — thanks to social media, digital media, and similar outlets. I’ve always been fascinated by other cultures.
How has your hometown influenced your artistic work?
Growing up in Pula shaped my aesthetic sense and sensitivity to art. The proximity to the sea and nature has always been a source of inspiration for me. Growing up in a Mediterranean environment taught me to appreciate the simplicity and beauty of life.
How would you describe your life philosophy in a few sentences?
Perhaps my pseudonym, Suzy Love, says it best. It reflects the essence of my life philosophy. For me, love is the driving force in every aspect of my life. I believe every moment is worth living fully and exploring the world around us with an open mind and heart. I always strive to create deep connections with people and the environment.
I travel through life with a sense of curiosity and gratitude.
