Written by: Velimir Cindrić Photos: Marko Mihaljević & Đorđe Stošić
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Vodnjan, a charming town in the southwestern part of Istria, is famous for various things, the most notable of which being the “Vodnjan Miracle”. Namely, its parish church of Saint Blaise on the main town square holds a unique collection, one of the most valuable in the world, consisting of 370 saints’ relics, i.e. body parts of 250 saints.
However, in addition to being a pilgrimage site and a recently discovered tourist attraction, Vodnjan also boasts several other – some might argue just as important – wonders: its olive oils, wines and culinary delicacies. Many of the best Croatian olive oils are produced in this very region, popular not only in Croatia but also all over the world, along with excellent wines and regional specialties .
When it comes to the latter, the well-known family restaurant called Vodnjanka is an unprecedented foodie mecca that is celebrating its 45th anniversary this year. Svjetlana Celija, the restaurant’s owner and chef de cuisine, has won numerous of culinary awards, including one from the Istria Tourist Board for “the person with more than 50 years of experience in the field” (she had worked in the family restaurant long before taking over), and is also the president of the Master Chef Exam Committee.
Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to say that Svjetlana is a sort of ambassador for Istrian culture, cuisine and catering, just as it does not come as a surprise that the restaurant has made its way into several international gastronomic guides.
To make matters even more interesting, the Zagreb establishment of this other Vodnjan miracle is marking its fifth anniversary this year. This charming replica is located in the city centre, in Gundulićeva Street, and it is run by Svjetlana’s daughter Ivana, who has lived in Zagreb for nearly a quarter of a century now.
– I came to Zagreb for university and ended up staying. I thought about introducing the world of Vodnjan to Zagreb because I grew up in our family restaurant, playing in the kitchens as a child and working alongside my mom as a teenager and student. Six years ago, I suggested to my mom that we open a restaurant in Zagreb and expand beyond the borders of Istria. That’s where it all started. I found myself in the role of restaurant manager, which is both my hobby and my passion – says Ivana.
They started slowly, first appearing at the Zagreb Christmas Market two years in a row, with a small stand in Tomićeva Street, where they promoted their family restaurant in Vodnjan and offered several of its signature dishes – Istrian prosciutto and cheese, minestrone, fuži (home-made twirly pasta) with truffles, Istrian sausages with sauerkraut, and breaded cod.
– People warmed up to our dishes pretty quickly, so the idea of opening a restaurant in Zagreb started to take shape. We envisioned it exactly as it is today. My first encounter with this space can only be described as love at first sight. I called my mom right away and told her that I had found the perfect spot. We aimed for a small restaurant with roughly 30 chairs where customers could feel at home – explains Ivana.
People who enjoy travelling and eating generally argue that the foods they enjoyed at specific authentic places taste differently when prepared at home, even if the original ingredients are used. This psychological reality demonstrates how difficult it is to transmit a good culinary story to another place, outside of its natural setting.
– That’s true. However, we strive to recreate the ambience of our original restaurant, making sure that all ingredients are sourced from Istria and that the menu, wine list, and service of our guests, are identical – and this actually does the trick. For example, our Istrian prosciutto, which we buy from local farms in Istria, cannot be purchased anywhere else. Besides, mom doesn’t allow changes to the original flavours. Our Zagreb establishment is run by two chefs who were trained in the kitchens in Vodnjan, so their approach to the meals is the same – we can state with confidence that we have provided our guests with an authentic gourmet experience. And the outcome couldn’t have been any different because we simply transferred everything from Vodnjan to Zagreb – claims Ivana.
On top of all that, the hosts do their best to achieve the seemingly impossible – simulate the pace of a small town in a big city. And they manage admirably: from the moment customers walk through the door of the restaurant, as if by some magic, they enter an oasis of serenity, instantly disconnecting from the hustle and bustle of city life and the stress that comes with it. The secret, it seems, lies in many years of experience.
To elaborate, the original Vodnjanka restaurant was established way back in 1965 by Ivana’s grandmother Ana. It began as a modest tavern, where wine was served with prosciutto, cheese, and fuži with žgvacet, i.e. chicken goulash-like dish. When Ana’s daughter Svjetlana earned her degree in tourism in Opatija, she began assisting her mother at the restaurant and eventually took over the operations. At first, she stuck to the more basic offer, only to gradually transform it into what has become typical of Vodnjanka today.
The family expanded and redesigned the space, ushering in a new story based on Ana’s distinctive cuisine and the entire gourmet history of the Vodnjan matrons.
– There were a lot of wealthy people in Vodnjan, mainly Italians, and cooking was different there than in the countryside. Vodnjanka, too, has always been inspired by the local recipes of better-off households, taking on a slightly more modern form later on. To be more specific, we set our sights on traditional, home-cooked dishes with authentic flavours but served in a more modern way. One might say we strive for some form of fine dining, yet without straying from the traditional flavours that are the backbone of our cuisine. It’s the same in Vodnjan and Zagreb – says Ivana.
Vodnjanka’s appearance in Zagreb did not go unnoticed and was preceded by its strong reputation as the family restaurant in Vodnjan has many regular customers from Zagreb, and Svjetlana is well-known in the world of Istrian cuisine and beyond.
In any case, a true connoisseur of the original restaurant will immediately recognise the table settings and distinctive touches, such as rosemary bouquets and laurel branches. In addition, as we have already said, the menus of the two restaurants are identical.
The customers are welcomed with several types of olive oil from well-known producers, as well as the Celija family oil, to be tasted with bread or polenta with olives, mišanca (wild edible herbs) or arugula, which is always on the house.
Because the menu is entirely seasonal, there are always sausages and boneless pork chops known as ombolo available in the winter. Aside from cheeses, prosciutto, and frittatas, the hosts are especially proud of their home-made, fresh pasta – ravioli, pljukanci, fuži and gnocchi, which are served with seasonal sauces, such as the ones from asparagus and porcini. Boškarin gravy-like sauce is available all year round.
Main courses featuring boškarin meat are particularly popular, but they are somewhat less common in Zagreb. The dishes made from the meat of this Istrian cattle include carpaccio, flambé and tagliata, as well as sausages made from mixed Boškarin and donkey meat. Then there is capello del prete, a side of slow-roasted beef with a powerful flavour and creamy texture, beef tagliata…, an on Fridays, three different cod dishes are available.
Nowadays, the star of the show is Bumbarska torta, a Vodnjan specialty made from almonds, sugar and eggs, without the addition of flour. It was named after Bumbari, the local moniker for Italians living in Vodnjan. Those wealthy residents always had a great supply of high-quality almonds on hand and used them to make all their sweets. We recommend this simple, yet irresistibly delicious cake to everyone who visits Vodnjanka, because it is the only restaurant where this specialty can be tasted.
Prices in Vodnjanka, Istria, are not much different from those in Zagreb, even if they are slightly higher in Zagreb due to higher taxes and the costs of food delivery from Istria. Be that as it may, a three-course meal with a glass of wine may be had for as little as 50 euros per person.
Since Istria is a renowned Croatian wine region, the selection of wines in Vodnjanka is exclusively comprised of the best and most exceptional Istrian brands, wines that pair perfectly with Istrian cuisine. It is only natural, given that this province boasts a vast array of wines, both in terms of variety and style, to supply the perfect wine for each and every one of the many dishes.
Vodnjanka in Zagreb has more than piqued the interest of tourists during the last five years.
– Foreign visitors to Zagreb who do not plan to visit Istria are happy to visit our restaurant. You see, most tourists visiting Croatia are aware that Istria is the most fascinating culinary region in Croatia, with tourist guides often comparing it to Tuscany. Therefore, Vodnjanka in Gundulićeva is their favourite spot – says Ivana and continues:
– We want both our Vodnjanka restaurants to grow in tandem. Zagreb is a very competitive market so this restaurant is very important to us. Of course, this doesn’t mean that we don’t give enough weight to the old family restaurant, because our story begins and ends in Vodnjan. Our ingredients and recipes all originate there, and they’ll always be the driving force behind our restaurant. One thing is certain: regardless of what the future holds, we will remain committed to the original cuisine and flavours at both of our restaurants.
In conclusion:
– My mom continues to willingly add fresh chapters to the authentic and genuine story of her mother, her grandmother, and many other matrons of Vodnjan – the story of traditional and indigenous Istrian cuisine that lives on via our recipes – never, ever forgetting the family that started it all. These 45 years of Vodnjanka are living proof that if you put your heart and soul into what you do, the rewards are plentiful and ever-growing.
